2005 Haut Bergey

This Pessac-Leognan was a wine I thought I'd purchased as a 2005 future. Unfortunately the store where the futures were ordered went out of business. So tonight was my first taste of the '05 Bergey, from a half bottle at Brabo in Alexandria, VA. Sat two tables away from Jim Brady (Reagan's paralyzed former press secretary, shot during the assassination attempt*) and his wife (gun control activist) and their friend. Anyhow, the wine: still young looking but tannins pretty sweet and soft. Dark in color and very silky on the palate. On nose, started off with blackberry and very little cherry, then developed an intriguing and enticing mint, spearmint in particular, and maybe hint of eucalyptus and other spices. Perhaps a hint of licorice and cocoa/mocha. The acid, fruit and tannin in good balance with the alcohol. Will be better, with a more open aroma, in a couple years and last another 8-10. It's a classic bordeaux worth 91 points.

*I have a story about just missing that March 1981 event at the Washington Hilton, previously best known as the frequent site of the APSA annual meeting. I was in DC to tape a Charlie Rose show (then a syndicated day-time talk show) and to do a signing of my first book at Kramerbooks. The signing was spoiled as Reagan was shot midday and was in bad shape at GW Hospital; the city almost shut down. With me on Rose show was Lou Cannon, Reagan's biographer and Wash Post White House reporter, and he invited me to go with him to Reagan's speech at the Hilton right after the taping. Cannon was later an eyewitness to the shooting. I turned down Lou's invitation, which was a mistake.

Parker says 92 points:
One of the finest under-the-radar estates in Pessac-Leognan, Haut-Bergey’s 2005 (a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot) offers up aromas of scorched earth, wet stones, burning embers, charcoal, and copious black currant and cherry fruit. The sumptuous bouquet is accompanied by a full-bodied wine displaying dazzling purity, sweet tannin, and a long, opulent finish. This beauty will be drinkable at a relatively early age for a 2005. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.

Here are 3 notes from Tanzer, showing his varied responses in '06, '07 and '08 as the wine matured--though most recent is obviously 3 years ago:

By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, May/Jun 06
Full ruby-red. Expressive aromas of cassis, dark chocolate, loam, truffle and smoke. Ripe and dense but not at all overly sweet, with harmonious acidity framing and intensifying the flavors of black cherry, dark chocolate, burning tobacco and smoke. I like the fruit/acid balance here. Finishes with firm, slightly drying tannins, sexy oak tones and very good length. 88-91 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, May/Jun 07
Deep medium ruby. Blackberry, violet and a hint of dark chocolate on the nose. Impressively dense and primary, with flavors of blackberry and smoked meat complicated by a suggestion of bonfire. Chewy, dry and classic wine, finishing with substantial building tannins. 90-92 points
By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, May/Jun 08
($33-$38) Good full, deep red. Superripe aromas of redcurrant, plum, cherry, flowers and beefsteak tomato. Sweet, fat and full, but less wild and expressive today than the 2006. Distinct notes of milk chocolate and roasted berries. The major tannins currently cut off the wine's fruit. Impressively rich but lacks a spark: is this too ripe for its own good? 90? points