Saturday, February 18, 2012

Feb. 17, 2012 Dinner at Sergi Arola, Madrid--with pix of incredible food--Clos Mogador '07 and a real find in Spanish white wine

Clos Mogador 2007 is profoundly good. It's really young and in a way a shame to drink now, but with several hours of air it offered an incredible tour of its varieties, first smelling and tasting like cabernet, then syrah, then grenache/carignan. At least so I thought. I was reassured to read Parker review giving it 96 points and showing it does indeed have these major varietal components (though I thought it was mourvedre not carignan--can't keep those grapes straight):

"The flagship, the 2007 Clos Mogador is made up of 40% Garnacha, 20% Carinena, 20% Syrah, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is purple/black-colored with a sensational bouquet of mineral, truffle, espresso, black cherry, blueberry, and licorice. Dense and Reubenesque on the palate, it has great concentration, loads of savory fruit, impeccable balance, and several years of aging potential. Accessible now, this lengthy offering will be at its best from 2013 to 2027. It is one of the stars of the vintage in Priorat."

Because the wine was such a showcase for its key varietals, thus offering signature elements esp of syrah, cab and grenache at diff times, it was truly incredible in its complexity and interest. I would keep it for 2 more years because the tannin and acid could still use some integration; at that point it has the potential I think of 98 points, that is, challenging Mas Doix. Note that Mogador costs $63 here in Madrid at the great wine store Bodega St. Cecilia, and $90-100+ in the US.

Parker (or Jay Miller) gave 93 points to this outstanding white Spanish wine, which is $40 in the US. His notes are just right. Had it at Sergi Arola, a fantastic, superb restaurant run by a disciple of Fernan Adria. "The 2009 As Sortes is also 100% Godello aged for 8 months in foudre sourced from 14 hectares of estate vineyard. Medium straw-colored, it offers up an expressive nose of mineral, spring flowers, honeysuckle, pear, and tropical notes. With huge volume on the palate and amazing concentration, this creamy textured effort is impeccably balanced and long. Drink it over the next 4 years."