Sunday, July 5, 2009

kalin 1994 chardonnay cuvee W

Recently released after 15 years at the winery. Full body, almost viscous, and dark gold like an older Sauternes. There is a lot of burnt vanilla oak, butterscotch, honey and tropical fruit. I'm sure many would say the oak overpowers the more delicate fruit but it's OK with me. It's like an aged version of Beringer Private Reserve or Sbragia chardonnay, big fruit, big oak. This is less in style than it used to be in the 80s and 90s but that's when I cut my wine teeth. There's a nice finish with enough acid to stand up to most foods (in this case, even chicken wings with mustard or bbq sauce). We were lucky enough to get a case @ $25 btl, a large discount. shared with friends and will be interested to hear their reactions. I'd guess this has a year or two but not much more to last.

Here's Parker's notes from Dec 2007. 94 points

Even more impressive is the youthfulness of the 1994 Chardonnay Cuvee W. This wine, which comes from 60-year-old vines planted on gravelly soils from the old Wente clone, was bottled without filtration in 1995. Light gold in color with a stunning nose of honeyed citrus, candle wax, some caramelized oranges and nectarines, terrific acidity and a finish of a good 40+ seconds, this is old-style but remarkable Chardonnay made by an eccentric genius who continues to be uninfluenced by anything other than his own intriguing vision of high quality wine.

The reclusive and idiosyncratic Terry Leighton continues to release his wines a good ten years later than just about anybody else in California. He also continues to turn out one of the finest Sauvignon Blancs and longest-lived Chardonnays.

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