Wednesday, February 27, 2013

2005 Anderson's Conn Valley Right Bank (Merlot, Cab Franc)

This is an homage to St. Emilion, made in Napa 70% Merlot, 30% cabernet franc. I think I had this at a tasting once. It always gets good reviews from Parker, and a local liquor store here had it at very low price (near wholesale) so I picked it up. The store is kind of warm so I doubt the wine has been kept below 70 degrees; my hope in purchasing was that it's fully mature but not ruined (obviously).  So, looking at it, sure enough, it's not all that dark in color and has lots of brick red on the rim, suggesting maturity even though it's pretty young at 7+ yrs. On the nose it's a bit reticent at first, but the cab franc component, which lends it a not unpleasant green pepper and spice aroma, shines through, along with vanilla, violet. On the palate it's medium-full bodied, soft tannin and lots of acid, more than I'd like at this stage--that is on first pouring around 6:25--and perhaps suggesting a too-warm storage situation. However as always I want to give this wine some time to develop in glass; sometimes the acid settles down and rounds out with time, sometimes it gets worse. What suspense! The acid does make for a long finish, though also it's pretty hot (alcohol). That isn't to say fruit is lacking, but at the moment I'd call it out of balance relative to a good St Emilion or even California meritage.

6:50: Well, not much different. Maybe a little more fruit balancing the acid. Let's see how it does tomorrow.

Day 2: Very slightly better balance but still not the excellent wine the reviews led me to expect. Ditto Day 3.

Moral: Don't buy wine, especially fancy wine that's probably been on the shelf for years, from a wine store that is noticeably warm--even if it's selling at a great price.

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