La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1998

Probably my favorite Rioja (though I admit haven't had an enormous number of them, and in general prefer the Ribera del Duero and Priorats in Spain) is Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904. This 1998 is a tempranillo 90% plus 10% graciano, that they age for a long time in barrel and then for 8-10 years in bottle. So it's released as a mature wine. 24 Euros from Bogeda Privada in Madrid. About twice that in dollars in the US but still a reasonable price for fully mature fine red wine. The color is very much that of a mature wine, brick red dominates over the dark center looking like a bordeaux at 20 years. Lovely strong nose with black cherry, vanilla oak, raisiny ripeness and a delightful spicy mixture of perhaps witch hazel, wintergreen and/or clove. On palate it's round--just slides down, slight and sweet tannin dryness, a bit of heat from alcohol, and enough acid for balance. All of which makes for a long finish. I wouldn't say the palate is as complex and pleasing as the aroma. I have trouble believing it can last 10 years considering how resolved the tannins are. 93+. But we can see Parker thinks otherwise.

Tanzer: 93. Bright red with an amber rim.  Pungent, expansive scents of dried red fruits, potpourri, vanilla and pipe tobacco, with a spicy overtone.  The silky palate offers penetrating redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors sweetened by notes of vanilla and mocha.  Finishes smooth and long, with very soft tannins and lingering floral notes.  Ready to drink but there's very good depth here, suggesting (along with this wine's track record) that it will reward further patience.  I also had the chance to re-try the outstanding 2001 Vina Ardanza, which is aging at a snail's pace and really needs more time for the oak to fully integrate with its fruit.  Right now the vanilla character is dominating but there's obviously excellent material underneath it.

Parker: 95. The 1998 Gran Reserva 904 is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano aged in American cask for four years. It has a very fine nose with notes of dried honey, cloves, raisin and wild heather that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of orange peel on the entry. It has an effortless sense of harmony and poise, with a crisp tense finish and suffused with a sorbet-like freshness. It just dances across the palate, a memorable Rioja with style and panache. Drink now-2030.