The aromas developed with time in glass, a combination of floral and strawberry with a hint of herbs and vanilla. The palate didn't develop as nicely, with acid more predominant than fruit, and soft tannins. I'm not sure there's a great future for this wine, unfortunately. To be fair, the wine was purchased and lugged home on the Berlin Ubahn only a week ago, and it's in a 375 ml bottle, so it might be an unfair comparison to more settled wines in 750 ml bottles. Also I'm using the lousy, very shallow glass that is available in my Berlin apt (I've ordered some Riedel glasses--Riedel being a German company they're inexpensive here!). But I'd only give this 87 points. The Wine Advocate was much more enthusiastic at 93 points:
The 2009 Remelluri Reserva aims at showing the character of Remelluri, as this is the first modern vintage that does not have grapes purchased from external suppliers. These grapes are now in the Lindes range of wines, but in the past they were blended with the estate grapes. The cool Remelluri vineyards behave very well in warmer years. This 2009 is very clean with predominant aromas of earthy red fruit intermixed with notes of vanilla and cinnamon, a satin texture with round, fine-grained tannins and quite classical and very well-proportioned style. This is a great vintage for Remelluri Reserva.
Wednesday, April 20, 2016
Sunday, January 31, 2016
Tasting in Spain January 2016: 1. Madrid and Ribera del Duero
On my admittedly self-indulgent visit to Madrid for two months, I have determined to do a reasonable amount of tasting Spanish wines. They are so much more affordable here than in the US. This is different from French wines, which are generally little or no less expensive in France, perhaps because they have more of a world-wide market than Spanish wines. In any case, on my first full day in Madrid I purchased several bottles from Bodega Privada (online sales only, delivery for 6 Euros) at 1/3-2/3 less than US prices, followed a few days later by my visit to Bodega Santa Cecilia, one of my favorite wine shops in all the world. There I snagged 3 bottles of my favorite grenache wine, Alto Moncayo Alto Moncayo 2013 (also tasted at my Durham tasting in early January before I left) and a couple other gems at steep discount. And because of a slight mixup on the order they gave me a complementary tasting and tapas at their lovely wine bar. A wine bar that serves some superb Spanish wines, so I couldn't help adding on to my order a glass of Finca Dofi 2013. A great Priorat winery, but apparently not a great year for them judging by the tasting--89 points.
This was followed last week by a journey to Asturias, Cantabria (north and northwest of Spain), and Ribera del Duero where I had wonderful private tastings at Bodegas Vizcarra (famed for $20 in US "Pruno" which Parker keeps overrating at 93-94 points; it's $12 here) and Emilio Moro, which produces my current favorite Ribera, Malleolus. I found out that word means something like "little vineyard plot." I do think this trip solidified my sense that I like Ribera a bit better than Rioja. Not to say I don't love me some Rioja (see below). Tastings were private because I was the only tourist around midweek in late January. Also visited the ridge-top fort or castle at Penafiel, quite a dramatic place.
Notes on the Emilio Moro tasting:
This was followed last week by a journey to Asturias, Cantabria (north and northwest of Spain), and Ribera del Duero where I had wonderful private tastings at Bodegas Vizcarra (famed for $20 in US "Pruno" which Parker keeps overrating at 93-94 points; it's $12 here) and Emilio Moro, which produces my current favorite Ribera, Malleolus. I found out that word means something like "little vineyard plot." I do think this trip solidified my sense that I like Ribera a bit better than Rioja. Not to say I don't love me some Rioja (see below). Tastings were private because I was the only tourist around midweek in late January. Also visited the ridge-top fort or castle at Penafiel, quite a dramatic place.
Notes on the Emilio Moro tasting:
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Tasting 3 levels of wine at Emilio Moro: all excellent. Naia Restaurant serves Resalso by the glass for a song
Resalso 2014: Lightest in color, lowest in body and finish, less distinctively varietal. A bit of cherry soda on nose. No tannin, some alcohol on nose, pleasant medium finish. Citrus comes out with air on nose, maybe cotton candy. Very revealing to have this alongside the other two for tasting. 87 points. Resalso comes from young vines and recent vintage and tasting the other two alongside, from 2013 and 2011 and older vines, is instructive. Emilio Moro 2013: Bigger, deeper nose, slightly darker. Notable anise and spice with vanilla in background as in the cherry. There is definite tannin and acid on the finish. Tannins though are pretty round. With air it opens to give more oaky or vanilla nose. Nicely balanced and very pleasant now, better in a year or two. With more airing, more caramel and mint overtones, and rounder on palate, with longer but not terribly complex finish. 90 points. 2011 Malleolus: Huge increase in darkness and depth of nose. Anise plus more complex spices, vanilla. Fruit tones shade more toward plum here, with cherry and caramel. On palate round tannins but quite pronounced. Fruit and acid in nice balance carrying a medium long finish. Nose is classic winery smell of oak and fermented grapes. Wonderful silky mouth feel but with need of some age to soften tannins. I'd say give it 2-3 years. With more air, more complex nose develops. The impression is of high quality wine, from older vines, carefully crafted. Could not be mistaken for a Rhone or a Bordeaux or a Priorat. And is more elegant than most Riojas. There is a slight hint of sherry here, I guess or prune-type ripeness, but nicely integrated with the rest of the flavors and aromas. Might be a slight hint of citrus here too, and some forest floor, spice and mint coming on with more airing--even some sandalwood incense. 93 points.
From Vizcarra, the 2014 Pruno is a solid wine with some real character and deserves 89 points. The Vizcarra is significantly better, 91 points, but a clear step behind Malleolus.
At this moment I'm sitting on my 8th floor rooftop terrace looking west over Madrid. It's a clear day and I can actually see a bit of mountain at the far horizon. But on the whole the weather has been much cloudier than during my stay in 2012. Anyhow, I've just opened a bottle of La Rioja Alta Rioja 904, vintage 2005 which is the most recent release--they usually keep them for 10 years before releasing, and only make it, their Gran Reserva, in the best years. The nose is superb: creme de cassis and cherry vanilla with a hint of mint, exotic spices and flowers. The tannins are mostly resolved so it's indeed at its peak right now though will last a while with its nice balance of fruit, acid, alcohol and remaining tannin. I'd call it medium body, with a long balanced finish. The color is beautiful, purple with the brick colored rim denoting maturity. Sitting on my terrace drinking great Spanish wine: this was my dream that led me to come here for the winter. Enjoying also Flor d'Esgueva cheese, which is local to the Ribera area, a low lactose sheep's milk cheese featuring a nice tangy crumbly taste.
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| Vineyard at Vizcarra |
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| Penafiel Castle |
Tuesday, December 1, 2015
2012 Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo Sangiovese 60% Cabernet Sauv 40%
A SuperTuscan from Maremma on sale at Calvert Woodley for about $15. I had to buy a bottle. It generated a 93 point rating from Vinous (formerly Tanzer's IWC) which is pretty high for them. So what I'm finding in the glass initially is indeed a soft and smooth but complex wine with evolving nose of piney woods, cherry, a certain herbal earthiness that's common in sangiovese but dialed back a bit by the cabernet, which I like. With air more of a mint/menthol/eucalyptus aroma. Soft tannins and moderately long finish, medium body, fairly light colored. I'd say this is better than the hyped Black Slate Priorats I've purchased--not that they're bad.
Vinous says this in its review: Dark bright red. Amarone-like opulence on the nose and in the mouth, with a raisiny nuance to the ripe, soft red cherry, sweet spice and herb aromas and flavors. So velvety and opulent I would have tasted it in Veneto had I tasted it blind, but it’s so well balanced and smooth that it’s pretty irresistible. Finishes long, with lush, smooth tannins and a hint of residual sweetness. I really like this wine because, for all its showy sweetness and opulence, it manages to retain a graceful quality without going over the top. Amarone lovers will score it even higher than I have.
Vinous says this in its review: Dark bright red. Amarone-like opulence on the nose and in the mouth, with a raisiny nuance to the ripe, soft red cherry, sweet spice and herb aromas and flavors. So velvety and opulent I would have tasted it in Veneto had I tasted it blind, but it’s so well balanced and smooth that it’s pretty irresistible. Finishes long, with lush, smooth tannins and a hint of residual sweetness. I really like this wine because, for all its showy sweetness and opulence, it manages to retain a graceful quality without going over the top. Amarone lovers will score it even higher than I have.
2012 Ferrari-Carano Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon
Had this on Nov. 30 at District Commons restaurant, DC. Just a glass but it was unusually tasty for a restaurant glass. Spicy, licorice, blackcurrant, nicely balanced. Not super complex or rich, 90 points. Pretty good deal around $20 at the store.
Sunday, August 9, 2015
2009 Mas Romani (Mas Alta) La Basseta
Enjoyed this at Le Town Talk in St Paul with dear friends Clay and Inge. A superb Priorat that receives 95 points from Parker's newsletter and deserves it. The nose changed over time. Initially strong cherry; then mint./eucalyptus; then more licorice and woodsy/piney. The palate was a bit hot initially but after decanting and some time in bottle became softer. Cherry suggests Grenache dominance. Medium body, beautiful very dark red-purple color, moderately long finish. Flavors integrated in very pleasurable way after maybe an hour. Despite rich fruit, could be called elegant or suave if I were being pretentious. Matched up very nicely with the steak & frites dinner. I especially loved the changing array of aromas. Will taste again on Sunday evening after Saturday eve dinner. Priorat rarely disappoints. $65.
I found this on the Mas Romani website:
A WINE WITH A FEMININE FEEL?
So what I call suave and elegant they seem to call "feminine." Interesting.
Pictures of Mas Romani and Priorat http://www.bodegasmasalta.com/en/pictures.aspx
L A B A S S E T A 2 0 0 9 Made from a blend of our best Grenache vineyards, old vine Carignan and a dash of Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon, LA BASSETA is without a doubt the most feminine wine of our range. A complex mix of elegance and typical flavours of Priorat.
WINE BLEND: 60% Grenache noir, 20% Carignan and 20% Syrah PRODUCTION: 8.800 bottles and 100 magnums
VINE EXPOSURE: - 60% step slopes facing North East - 40% step slopes facing South East
SOIL CHARACTERISTICS: dark slate called “llicorella " ALTITUDE: 350 – 550 meters
AVERAGE YIELD: 0,5 - 1 kg/plant
AGE OF THE VINES: between 15 (Grenache) and 100 years old (Carignan)
AGING The aging period is about 16 months in Allier French oak barrels. - 60% new barrel - 40% 1 year old barrel
TASTING NOTES Beautiful black cherry colour, with a purple disk. The nose is complex, intense, with mineral aromas, associated with mint and fresh spices notes, black fruit. Nice depth. On the palate, the wine reveals an elegant acidity. The tannins are unctuous, powerful and fresh on the same time. Length, with coffee and spicy persistent notes on the finish.
AGING POTENTIAL: Drink it now through 2022 S
Parker says: The 2009 La Basseta is purple black in color with a brooding bouquet of liquid minerals, licorice, tapenade, a hint of balsamic, black cherry, and blackberry. On the palate it reveals greater richness than the 2008 with plush fruit, succulent flavors, and enough ripe tannin to evolve for 4-6 years. It will be at its best from 2015 to 2029.
Parker gets the blend wrong, it's 60% grenache.
Bodegas Mas Alta, based in the Priorat village of Vilella Alta, is a partnership of five Belgian families. They have hired the duo of Frenchmen Michel Tardieu and Philippe Cambie (of Rhone Valley renown) as consultants. Since 1999 they have planted 77 acres of vines, mostly on slate at altitude. The top cuvees are made from old-vine fruit purchased from local growers. The red wines begin with the value-priced Els Pics bottling made from younger vines with 45% of the fruit coming from valley floors. Both the 2008 and 2009 vintages are blends of 60% Grenache, 35% Carignan, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon with 12 months of aging in seasoned French oak. The Artigas cuvee is made up of 60% Grenache, 35% Carignan, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 16 months in 35% new French oak. Most of the fruit is sourced from Priorat’s steep slopes. The Cirerets cuvee is made up of 60% Grenache and 40% Carignan, all from steep slopes in llicorella slate. The Carignan portion comes from vines ranging in age from 40-100 years. The wine is aged in 30% new French oak for 18 months. The La Basseta cuvee is a blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Carignan, and 20% Syrah all from steep slopes and aged for 16 months in 60% new French oak. The flagship cuvee is La Creu Alta, a blend of 55% Carignan and 45% Grenache from old vines and steep hillsides planted in llicorella slate made only in top vintages. The wine is aged for 18 months in 80% new French oak.
I found this on the Mas Romani website:
A WINE WITH A FEMININE FEEL?
Throughout the process of producing our vintages, we aim to obtain sensitive and complex wines. La Basseta is undoubtedly the most feminine wine in our range. The intensity of the fruit blended with a long and silky finish make for a feminine feel...
So what I call suave and elegant they seem to call "feminine." Interesting.
Pictures of Mas Romani and Priorat http://www.bodegasmasalta.com/en/pictures.aspx
L A B A S S E T A 2 0 0 9 Made from a blend of our best Grenache vineyards, old vine Carignan and a dash of Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon, LA BASSETA is without a doubt the most feminine wine of our range. A complex mix of elegance and typical flavours of Priorat.
WINE BLEND: 60% Grenache noir, 20% Carignan and 20% Syrah PRODUCTION: 8.800 bottles and 100 magnums
VINE EXPOSURE: - 60% step slopes facing North East - 40% step slopes facing South East
SOIL CHARACTERISTICS: dark slate called “llicorella " ALTITUDE: 350 – 550 meters
AVERAGE YIELD: 0,5 - 1 kg/plant
AGE OF THE VINES: between 15 (Grenache) and 100 years old (Carignan)
AGING The aging period is about 16 months in Allier French oak barrels. - 60% new barrel - 40% 1 year old barrel
TASTING NOTES Beautiful black cherry colour, with a purple disk. The nose is complex, intense, with mineral aromas, associated with mint and fresh spices notes, black fruit. Nice depth. On the palate, the wine reveals an elegant acidity. The tannins are unctuous, powerful and fresh on the same time. Length, with coffee and spicy persistent notes on the finish.
AGING POTENTIAL: Drink it now through 2022 S
Parker says: The 2009 La Basseta is purple black in color with a brooding bouquet of liquid minerals, licorice, tapenade, a hint of balsamic, black cherry, and blackberry. On the palate it reveals greater richness than the 2008 with plush fruit, succulent flavors, and enough ripe tannin to evolve for 4-6 years. It will be at its best from 2015 to 2029.
Parker gets the blend wrong, it's 60% grenache.
Bodegas Mas Alta, based in the Priorat village of Vilella Alta, is a partnership of five Belgian families. They have hired the duo of Frenchmen Michel Tardieu and Philippe Cambie (of Rhone Valley renown) as consultants. Since 1999 they have planted 77 acres of vines, mostly on slate at altitude. The top cuvees are made from old-vine fruit purchased from local growers. The red wines begin with the value-priced Els Pics bottling made from younger vines with 45% of the fruit coming from valley floors. Both the 2008 and 2009 vintages are blends of 60% Grenache, 35% Carignan, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon with 12 months of aging in seasoned French oak. The Artigas cuvee is made up of 60% Grenache, 35% Carignan, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 16 months in 35% new French oak. Most of the fruit is sourced from Priorat’s steep slopes. The Cirerets cuvee is made up of 60% Grenache and 40% Carignan, all from steep slopes in llicorella slate. The Carignan portion comes from vines ranging in age from 40-100 years. The wine is aged in 30% new French oak for 18 months. The La Basseta cuvee is a blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Carignan, and 20% Syrah all from steep slopes and aged for 16 months in 60% new French oak. The flagship cuvee is La Creu Alta, a blend of 55% Carignan and 45% Grenache from old vines and steep hillsides planted in llicorella slate made only in top vintages. The wine is aged for 18 months in 80% new French oak.
Sunday, June 7, 2015
2007 Stonestreet Bear Point Cabernet
This one was a splurge purchase from Stonestreet, ordered after tasting it at the winery and comparing it to a Harlan (i.e., a $500-700 bottle). Something about the depth of the fruit, yet elegance and balance and very long finish reminded me of Harlan. So opening this one last night at 18 Seaboard with a friend was an interesting reality check. It is still quite dark, and the palate a celestrial variety of black fruits, boysenberry, blackberry, maybe blueberry, with spicy licorice, vanilla, pine woods and cream. The nose was rather restrained even with some time in the glass, but the taste varied from sip to sip, always soft (tannins now 80% melted away) and drinking like a mature Pomerol. I don't know why the nose wasn't more perfumed given the complex taste but this was a lovely balanced, complex medium bodied cabernet with a very long finish. 95 points.
Parket gives it only 92 points, but that was 5 years ago and the tannin has largely resolved as noted above: Another big, earthy, tannic, Medoc-styled wine is the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Bear Point. There are only 231 cases of this cuvee, which offers abundant amounts of black currant, cedar, spice box, and earth notes in a full-bodied, tannic style. Give it 5-8 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 20 years.
Parket gives it only 92 points, but that was 5 years ago and the tannin has largely resolved as noted above: Another big, earthy, tannic, Medoc-styled wine is the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Bear Point. There are only 231 cases of this cuvee, which offers abundant amounts of black currant, cedar, spice box, and earth notes in a full-bodied, tannic style. Give it 5-8 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 20 years.
Wednesday, February 18, 2015
2004 Andrew Will Sorella
The Wine Advocate nails this one: Also aging gracefully and just at the early stages of maturity, the 2004 Sorella possesses a lifted, elegant and perfumed array of violets, wild herbs, bay leaf and spice box that’s supported by a rich core of fruit. Medium to full-bodied, balanced and fresh, it opens nicely in the glass. It should hit full maturity in another 3-5 years and evolve gracefully after that. Drink now[2009]-2024. 93 points.
I found it remarkably young for an '04 and it definitely needed the half hour in glass, or even hour, before it really opened up its charms. Reminiscent of a bordeaux at first, then more unique because of the spice that was more new world. I'm glad I've got a lot of Sorella aging in the cellar. Drank this with Max at Medium Rare, the one-dish steak restaurant in Cleveland Park, to celebrate his 29th birthday. Excellent steak that went well with this wine.
I found it remarkably young for an '04 and it definitely needed the half hour in glass, or even hour, before it really opened up its charms. Reminiscent of a bordeaux at first, then more unique because of the spice that was more new world. I'm glad I've got a lot of Sorella aging in the cellar. Drank this with Max at Medium Rare, the one-dish steak restaurant in Cleveland Park, to celebrate his 29th birthday. Excellent steak that went well with this wine.
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