1995 Condada de Haza Ribera del Duero, Spain

This is a fully mature wine of considerable distinction. On the nose there's at first a hint of volatile acidity which is not unpleasant. Followed by a mature wine aroma of cherry, plum, blackberry, slightly burnt vanilla/caramel with little alcohol or hotness and no tannin on the palate. I have to say it reminded me a tiny bit of a mature Bordeaux, I suppose largely in the ease with which the aroma pervades and with which it goes down, tasting of no hotness or drying/puckering tannins, only sweet fruit. The color is ruby red with a pronounced brick red and light orange rim. This is delightful right now and maybe for another year at which point I'd guess the acidity will start to dominate the nose and palate instead of the ripe, mellow fruit. This is a 91 point wine, I think.

The wine was purchased at the local "Riojaspezialist" store a couple blocks away on Akazienstrasse. The owner is very friendly and knowledgable; he prefers Rioja obviously but does stock some Ribera, which I tend to prefer, so I was happy to see this venerable vintage available for a mere 24.5 Euros ($32), substantially less than it cost in 1997 dollars ($49) when it came out in the US. Again, it's wonderful to be able to take advantage of the lower prices for European wines here in...Europe! This wine is made by the same folks who put out Pesquera, a top Ribera bodega.

Parker gave it 90 points back in 1997:

The 1995 Contado de Haza exhibits an opaque ruby/purple color, followed by an expressive, sweet, jammy, toasty nose of black cherries, plums, and prunes. Generous and full-bodied fruit flavors ooze across the palate with a certain viscosity. Strikingly silky with low acidity, this marvelously-concentrated, voluptuously-textured, sexy wine can be drunk now or aged for 12-15 years. Overall, the 1995 is more harmonious than the earthier, more tannic 1994. This winery, owned by Pesquera's Alejandro Fernandez, is doing whole cluster fermentation and aging the wines for 15 months in American oak barrels. The 100% Tempranillo vineyard was planted by Fernandez in the 1980s on a south-facing slope. The first two vintages of this wine to be shipped internationally, 1994 and 1995, are extraordinarily impressive.

2007 Gratavinum gratallops Priorat

Wonderful at thru the looking glass restaurant, Szczecin, Poland with Tom and Clay. What a treat. Blueberry, cherry, plum and unidentified spices with some piney woods too. A little short on the finish and light body retards score a bit for Parker but I loved it. Ranks below clos de l'Obac purchased for Berlin stay. 450 zlotys or $135 in restaurant. $90 in store in USA. I say 93 points.

Chateauneuf du Pape Domaine Marcoux 2005

Had this at local French restaurant--2 blocks from apt in Schoneberg-- with high rating on Tripadvisor, La Cocotte. Good food and service, nice atmosphere. Thought wine (69 Euros) was the best on the menu (outside of a couple champagnes). Cheapest price in Germany from a store is $56 so this wine is reasonably priced at the restaurant. Found it complex, full of intriguing aromas that were hard to identify. Cherry and flowery aromas with spice typical of a CdP. On palate, very round even though plenty of acid shows up on finish and tannins soft, again not esp noticeable till finish; i.e. it's moving toward maturity. I liked it a lot and think it'll be as good or better tomorrow. 92+. I was glad to find out Parker's rating almost identical to mine, that is, an excellent but not superb CdP. I was surprised this has 80% grenache--I still have trouble identifying grenache when it comes from CdP rather than US, Australia or Spain.

Parker: 93 Points. 2005 was a fabulous year for Marcoux, and the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape (80% Grenache and 20% Syrah and Cinsault) boasts a dark plum/purple color along with beautiful bouquet filled with scents of flowers, truffles, roasted meats, blueberries, black raspberries, and licorice. This opulent, intense wine possesses heady alcohol as well as a sweet, soft, full-bodied, moderately tannic finish. This beauty is one of the finest traditional cuvees made over the last decade. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020+.

Tanzer: 2005 Domaine de Marcoux Chateauneuf du Pape. 92 points. ($74). Fresh, full-blown strawberry and raspberry aromas are complemented by fresh lavender and baking spices. A smoothly textured midweight, offering sweet red fruit flavors and gentle mineral lift. The round, supple character will allow for early drinking pleasure.

2005 clos de l'Obac 2005 Priorat.

Black cherry, spearmint, pine forest, flowery. Dark color, silky on palate with soft tannins. Early stage of maturity I'd say with 6-8 yrs or more left. Seems more Grenache than anything else but also syrah. Maybe Cabernet supplies mint? 93+. Parker gives it much longer life than me. Hope he's right. 35 euros from store in Belgium shipped to me in great container to Berlin. More like $70 in USA. I love the big discount on Spanish and Italian wines here in Europe. Not so much French I guess because of global mkt for Bordeaux. With air I'm getting more of the smoky scorched earth overtone mentioned by Parker.

Update Thursday drinking better than before 3 full days After opening. Wonderful strong spices minty plum cherry fruit with anise undertone. 94+ today...why I love Priorat.

Parker 93:
The 2005 Clos de L’Obac is 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Garnacha, and the balance Syrah, Carinena, and Merlot. The wine was aged for 14 months in new French oak and bottled unfiltered. More structured and expressive than its sibling, the nose delivers smoke, slate, scorched earth, black cherry, and blueberry. Plush and layered, the wine has excellent length and 6-8 years of cellaring potential. It will be at its best from 2013 to 2025.

Tanzer 94 pts
2005 Costers del Siurana Clos de L'Obac Priorat
($94; the same blend as the Miserere) Deep ruby. Ripe cherry and blackcurrant aromas are complicated by cured tobacco, iron and fresh flowers. Vanilla and baking spices come up with air and carry onto the palate, which offers sweet red and dark berry flavors and a velvety texture. Leaves sweet blackberry and boysenberry behind on the long, seamless finish. Extremely alluring wine that is surprisingly accessible already.

2006 Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino

Enjoyed this wine with new colleague Barbara Pfetsch of Free University-Berlin, and Francie, at the excellent Il Calice on Walter Benjaminplatz last night. (Walter Benjamin being a hero among left-leaning social theorists, this is an appropriate venue indeed.) This is the first Brunello I've had in a while and I'd forgotten how distinctive this wine's profile is. You can't mistake it for a cabernet or a grenache. The earthy quality, along with lavender, black cherry and strawberry, are distinctively Brunello and I suppose a mark of the terroir in Tuscany where the Sangiovese is called Brunello (and maybe there is something about the particular clone of sangiovese they use there). Although the wine was well short of maturity, it opened up nicely with airing. There will be more nuances in a couple years. The tannins were soft and the acid sturdy enough to support further aging. I'd think it will be markedly better in 2014-15 and be good till 2020. 92+


Parker says:

May 2011 Antonio Galloni 94+ Drink: 2016 - 2026 $64 (64)
The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino offers up freshly cut flowers, black cherries, minerals, new leather and menthol in a polished, totally vibrant style that is highly appealing. Over time, the wine’s inner sweetness emerges, hinting at what is in store over the coming years. Still quite firm, the estate’s Brunello will need a few years in the cellar. It will appeal most to readers who like firm, ageworthy wines. This finish impresses for its focus and overall purity. Smoke, underbrush, tar and a host of other aromas and flavors add complexity on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026.

Tanzer: 91
Good full medium red. Red berries, rose petal, lavender and a whiff of gingerbread on the nose. Juicy, sweet and savory, with lovely intensity and grip. Harmonious acidity energizes the mid-palate and gives definition and cut to the wine's dark berry and spice flavors. Not a silky style but penetrating, firmly tannic, long and built to age. Broad on the back but a bit youthfully tough today and in need of at least several years of cellaring.

Bodegas Cerenas Evohe Old Vine Grenache 2009

Available from one of the 4 or 5 small local wine stores, each specializing in a specific wine--this one is a Rioja specialist with whom I've spoken at length, a passionate devotee. Walked by his store, about 2 blocks from our Berlin Apt across from Kleistpark, and saw a circular for a 7 Euro bottle of Grenache that earned 92 points from the Penin guide to Spanish wines. So I just opened a bottle. It's very very good and I will buy a case for just 70 Euros, making this about $7/bottle. It's a hedonistic fruity Grenache, not deep and profound but a perfect daily red wine with blueberry/strawberry/blackberry aroma and flavor, no tannin and just a touch of acid.

Feb. 17, 2012 Dinner at Sergi Arola, Madrid--with pix of incredible food--Clos Mogador '07 and a real find in Spanish white wine

Clos Mogador 2007 is profoundly good. It's really young and in a way a shame to drink now, but with several hours of air it offered an incredible tour of its varieties, first smelling and tasting like cabernet, then syrah, then grenache/carignan. At least so I thought. I was reassured to read Parker review giving it 96 points and showing it does indeed have these major varietal components (though I thought it was mourvedre not carignan--can't keep those grapes straight):

"The flagship, the 2007 Clos Mogador is made up of 40% Garnacha, 20% Carinena, 20% Syrah, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is purple/black-colored with a sensational bouquet of mineral, truffle, espresso, black cherry, blueberry, and licorice. Dense and Reubenesque on the palate, it has great concentration, loads of savory fruit, impeccable balance, and several years of aging potential. Accessible now, this lengthy offering will be at its best from 2013 to 2027. It is one of the stars of the vintage in Priorat."

Because the wine was such a showcase for its key varietals, thus offering signature elements esp of syrah, cab and grenache at diff times, it was truly incredible in its complexity and interest. I would keep it for 2 more years because the tannin and acid could still use some integration; at that point it has the potential I think of 98 points, that is, challenging Mas Doix. Note that Mogador costs $63 here in Madrid at the great wine store Bodega St. Cecilia, and $90-100+ in the US.


Parker (or Jay Miller) gave 93 points to this outstanding white Spanish wine, which is $40 in the US. His notes are just right. Had it at Sergi Arola, a fantastic, superb restaurant run by a disciple of Fernan Adria. "The 2009 As Sortes is also 100% Godello aged for 8 months in foudre sourced from 14 hectares of estate vineyard. Medium straw-colored, it offers up an expressive nose of mineral, spring flowers, honeysuckle, pear, and tropical notes. With huge volume on the palate and amazing concentration, this creamy textured effort is impeccably balanced and long. Drink it over the next 4 years."