1989 Clinet (Pomerol) and Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 2002

A great treat at Wib and Charlotte's for Christmas dinner. Starting with a Chassagne (I think from Morey) that was wonderful, beautiful gold color, nose of butter and pineapple and lychee with vanilla spice. I have to believe it's at its peak, incredibly balanced and pure with just the right acid to fruit ratio. It is from the 2002 vintage, which Wib and I saw being harvested in Burgundy. I'm not sure but I think it was Chenevottes vineyard which Parker rates 90 points. I'd give it 93 myself. He says drink till 2010. I'd think it'll go 2-3 more years, till 2012 or so.

The light to medium-bodied, mineral-scented 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes is a concentrated, precise, deep, crystalline wine. Loads of quartz and gravel flavors can be found throughout its silky-textured character as well as in its prolonged finish. Drink it over the next 6 years.

Now as to Clinet, a Parker 100 point Pomerol that we bought in 1991 or so as a future and have drunk a couple of times in past years. I have no bottles left. Incredibly enough, tasted tonight with tannins smoothed out but distinctly noticeable on a moderately long finish, the nose suggested it's still years before peaking. The nose was plum and black cherry and blackberry. With air the nose and palate added cocoa/mocha to this enticing fruit menu. The color was still very youthful. The bottle had a dry cork but this wine was in perfect condition after nearly 20 yrs cellaring at Wib and Charlottes house, sans refrigeration but in a cool cellar. I'd give it 95 points and suggest not drinking any more bottles for another 3-4 years and then it'll be drinking just fine for another decade after that--say 2025 if not longer.

Parker's 100 pt review is from 1997 contrasts greatly with Wine Spectator's (giving it 89 pts) from 2003. Parker:

The 1989's aroma (believe it or not, the first bottle in the blind tasting was badly corked) jumps from the glass, offering up pure scents of flowers, black-raspberries, currants, vanillin, and truffles. Full-bodied, with a seamless texture, fabulous concentration, a massive degree of richness, but no heaviness or awkwardness, this remains one of the most profound young wines I have ever tasted. Its sweetness of fruit and layers of flavor, combined with its remarkable texture are the stuff of legends. Both of these wines are approachable (their high Merlot content ensures them softness), yet they remain largely unevolved. If readers like them young, do not hesitate to drink a bottle or two. Ideally, both the 1989 and 1990 vintages will benefit from 4-5 years of cellaring. Given the 1989's additional flavor extraction and length, it is a 25-30-year wine. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2030.

WS: Starts well on the palate but slows down. Lovely aromas of cherry and dark chocolate and hints of earth and vanilla. Full-bodied and velvety, with medium fruit and a medium finish. Slightly one-dimensional. Give it time.--1989 Bordeaux horizontal. Best after 2003. –JS

Jancis Robinson--whom I keep disagreeing with, gave this just 14 points (of 20) in 2008. I think she had a bad bottle:

Acetic nose. Very, very modern, new style. Coconut. Thick and acid. Aggressive, unbalanced. Exaggerated. Too much for me. 26 Jun 2004