Wednesday, September 30, 2009

2004 Andrew Will Sorella

As noted earlier I've become a real fan of the Will bordeaux blends. A few wines ago there are notes on the 2002 and 2006. I haven't read them in an effort to make an unbiased evaluation of this one. On 9/29, last night, I opened and found wonderful red fruit (strawberry, plum, maybe cherry) plus very pleasant woodsy and spicy nose. THe palette is long and complex and very nicely balanced, with good acid and soft tannin that melts right in with the fruit. A moderately long and complex finish and lovely color add to the enjoyment. Tonight, after the wine was gassed but not refrigerated, it had lost its brightness and delineation and the acid had receded. Still the nose was great, with different components: chocolate, coffee and blackberry. Actually trying to recall the taste last night I think there were also mocha and caramel/vanilla overtones then, but no black fruit. So I'm giving this baby a 93. I think it'll drink well for 6-8 years, say till 2018.

Writing in 2007 Parker gave it 92 points. Clearly he thinks it'll last longer than I'm saying; maybe that's because I didn't write any notes till tonight and my memory is distorted. On the other hand, Wine Spec gives it 92 points but says drink only till 2014 which is shorter than I predict. So maybe I'm right if you average the predictions.

The 2004 Sorella is sourced from the Champoux Vineyard and is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot,18% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot. It was aged for 21 months in 70% new French oak. Dark ruby-colored, it presents a fragrant perfume of pain grille, scorched earth, sweet spices, clove, mint, cassis, and black currants. This leads to a medium-bodied, velvety-textured, seamless, full-flavored wine with excellent balance and enough structure to evolve for 3-5 years. It should provide pleasure through 2027.

Notice the substantial difference in smell/taste descriptions from me and Parker in the WS. I think what this means is that basically a cab dominated wine smells like berries and currants with some burnt component if aged a long time in oak. Parker calls it pain grille and scorched earth, WS calls it tar, and I called it woodsy. Take your pick. WS:

An expressive red that's bright, open-textured and juicy, with blueberry, tar and currant flavors, lingering on the fine-grained finish. Needs time to shed the tannins, but the flavors come through well and persist impressively. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2009 through 2014. 740 cases made

And notice the stephen tanzer review from IWC:

2004 Andrew Will Winery Sorella Red Wine Horse Heaven HIlls

($66; a blend of 55% cabernet sauvignon, 21% merlot, 18% cabernet franc and 6% petit verdot) Bright, saturated ruby-red. Sappy black fruits, licorice and pomegranate on the nose. Then densely packed but quite tightly wound and brisk in the mouth, with distinctly primary berry and graphite flavors lifted by a floral component. Very youthful wine with an excellent spine of acids and tannins. This must be the freshest set of Bordeaux blends I've tasted from Chris Camarda in years. 91 points.

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