Monday, August 17, 2009

Andrew Will 2005 Champoux Bordeaux Blend


My first (I think) Washington State red of any distinction. Just purchased 6 bottles of the Andrew Will Sorella 2006; Max had a bottle and raved about it, so I got a bottle of a different cepage up here in Vermont where we are staying on Joe's Pond, West Danville, for the week of Griff Seymour's wedding. So, yesterday I opened this Champoux vineyard bottling. Initially the wine was extremely complex on the palate though somewhat closed on the nose (as Max noted in the Sorella) with menthol/mint/eucalyptus, black cherry, oak and a prune/raisin/sherry quality indicating, I guess, quite a ripe vintage. The color is very deep purple with no red or anything else on the rim. With air seemed like almost a cherry cough syrup. I can sense the cherry from the merlot and the faintly woodsy/spicy/slightly vegetal (not unpleasantly so) element from the cab franc. These together overwhelm the cabernet black currant element that would I assume be present without these two in the blend prominently. As we see from Parker the wine is 45% cab and 55% of cab franc, merlot and petit verdot. The acid was pronounced and the tannins moderately firm, suggesting long life given the very highly extracted fruit that will stand up to the acid and tannin. Moderately long finish. I'd guess this will go a good 10-15 years or more.

Used the vacuvin (no gas up here) and put in refrigerator. 24 hours later, today on Aug 17, the nose still was not very forthcoming. You can tell from the color and the restrained but pleasant and complex aroma that this is a keeper. The taste is less Bordeaux than California because the fruit is so forward. I suppose it's kind of St Emilion like, showcasing the Cab franc. Now about an hour after opening the Vacuvin stopper this thing is really cooking, even opening a bit on the nose.

Parker's tasting notes are a bit opaque to me (I don't know what grilled bread smells like, maybe what I think of as the combination of oak and sherry ripeness gives a burnt element) but the 94 points is just what I'd say.

On Wednesday, 2 days after opening, the wine was holding very well. More rounded now and the cab franc was more in evidence with a slight bit of vegetal on palate (not enough to spoil) while the nose remained soft, with a raspberry and violet tinge and still long balanced finish. I am really impressed with how well it's still drinking, a great sign for ageability.

Parker 94 points:
The 2005 Champoux Vineyard is made up of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Purple-colored, it delivers an alluring perfume of pain grille, spice box, and violets. On the palate, it is layered, intense, and powerful. Its impeccable balance should allow it to evolve for up to a decade and drink well through 2030.

Andrew Will, located on pastoral Vashon Island, was founded in 1989 by former sommelier Chris Camarda. His focus is on blended, Bordeaux-style wines from some of Washington’s finest vineyards. The wines are made identically, the differences among them reflective of that vineyard’s terroir. He also produces a Syrah named in honor of his late wife. Chris Camarda’s efforts with Syrah deserve serious attention. The Annie Camarda Syrah is a blend of fruit from the Champoux and Ciel du Cheval Vineyards, two of eastern Washington’s finest.

Wine Spectator also 94 points so we're all agreed on the quality but WS sees a much shorter drinking window than Parker or I:
Seamless and harmonious, with beautifully articulated, ripe black cherry, cassis and violet-tinged floral notes that mingle with hints of cedar and dark chocolate as the finish plays out against polished tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2009 through 2015. 1,185 cases made. –HS

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